On a brick veneer job the bricklayer laid the first course tight to the sheathing with the flashing stopped an inch behind the brick face, then filled the bottom 6 inches of the cavity with mortar droppings while he worked, and there are no weep holes because 'the mortar will seal it.' Homeowner's happy.

Water will enter the wall and rot the sheathing/framing. This is a defective drainage plane. Here is the failure sequence:

1. Flashing Termination (IRC R703.8 / TMS 402): Flashing must extend to the exterior face of the brick (or turn down into a weep). Stopping 1" back creates a direct channel for wind-driven rain to hit the sheathing.
2. Mortar Dam (IRC R703.8.2.1 / TMS 602): Filling the cavity bottom 6" with droppings creates a mortar dam. It bridges the cavity, wicking water directly to the sheathing and blocking drainage.
3. Missing Weeps (IRC R703.8.2.1): Weeps (3/16" min. dia. @ 33" o.c. max) are mandatory. "Mortar sealing it" guarantees hydrostatic pressure builds in the cavity during rain events.

Result: Water ponds on the flashing behind the brick, saturates the mortar droppings, and migrates inward through the WRB fastener holes and sheathing joints. Expect sheathing rot, mold, and structural damage within 2–5 years.

Required Fix (Tear-out):

• Remove bottom 2–3 courses of brick.
• Clean cavity completely (remove all droppings).
• Install proper flashing (peel-and-stick or copper) extending past brick face with drip edge.
• Install weep vents (open head joints or mesh vents) at 24" o.c. directly above flashing.
• Re-lay brick with 1" min. clear air space (use mesh drainage mat if cavity < 1").
• Install cavity mortar net (e.g., Mortar Net) at base to prevent future droppings bridging.

Code Citations: IRC R703.8 (Flashing), R703.8.2.1 (Weeps), R703.8.4 (Air space), TMS 402/602.

Liability: Homeowner "happiness" does not void code or physics. Document with photos/video. This requires a licensed mason to correct; it is not a caulk-and-pray repair.

This is a serious moisture management failure that will lead to long-term damage — despite the homeowner’s current satisfaction.

What’s wrong:

• Flashing stopped 1" behind brick face: Flashing must extend to the exterior face of the brick (or beyond, with a drip edge) to direct water out of the cavity. Stopping it behind the brick traps water against the sheathing.
• No weep holes: Weep holes are required by IRC R703.8.4 and ASTM E2128 to drain water that penetrates the brick veneer. Mortar droppings in the bottom 6" of the cavity will clog any potential drainage path — even if weep holes existed, they’d be blocked.
• Mortar droppings filling the cavity: This creates a “mortar bridge” that wicks water upward via capillary action and prevents drainage. It also traps moisture against the sheathing and framing, promoting rot, mold, and corrosion of fasteners.

What will happen:

• Water penetrating the brick (inevitable over time) will hit the flashing, but instead of draining out, it will pond against the sheathing.
• Moisture will migrate into the wall assembly, causing:
• Sheathing rot (OSB/plywood)
• Mold growth inside the wall cavity
• Corrosion of steel studs or fasteners
• Interior finish damage (peeling paint, stained drywall)
• Potential structural degradation over 5–15 years
• The “mortar seal” myth is dangerous — mortar is not a waterproof barrier; it’s porous and cracks. Trapped moisture accelerates deterioration.

What should be done (if caught early):

• Remove the first course of brick.
• Clean out mortar droppings from the cavity.
• Install proper through-wall flashing extending to the brick face with a drip edge.
• Drill weep holes (minimum 3/16" diameter) every 24" o.c. in the head joints directly above the flashing.
• Ensure a 1" clear air space behind the brick (per IRC R703.8.4).

Bottom line: This violates IRC and building science principles. The homeowner may be happy now — but they’re paying for a future repair bill. Advise them to correct this before closing or warranty expires. If they refuse, document your concerns in writing. This is not a DIY fix — it requires a mason or envelope specialist. Do not sign off on this as code-compliant.