I'm putting brick veneer on a wood-framed house.

Air Space (Cavity): 1" minimum (IRC R703.8.4 / TMS 402). Keep it clear of mortar droppings—use a mortar net or mesh at the base. This is your drainage plane; if it bridges, water reaches the sheathing.

Wall Ties (Anchors):

• Type: Corrosion-resistant (hot-dip galvanized or stainless steel). For coastal/Severe Weathering zones, stainless steel (Type 304/316) is required (IRC R703.8.4.1).
• Spacing: Max 24" horizontal x 16" vertical (IRC Table R703.8.4(1)). Within 12" of openings (windows, doors, corners) and top/bottom of walls.
• Embedment: Min 1.5" into mortar joint (bed joint preferred). Min 5/8" penetration into stud (not just sheathing). Screw into studs; nails withdraw.
• Veneer Weight: Standard brick veneer ≤ 40 psf. Heavier stone requires engineered spacing.

Weep Holes:

• Location: Immediately above flashing at base of wall, above lintels, above shelf angles, and at window/door heads.
• Spacing: Max 33" o.c. (IRC R703.8.6). 24" o.c. is better practice.
• Method: Open head joints (no mortar), plastic tubes, cotton wicks, or mesh vents. Open head joints are most reliable; tubes clog.
• Flashing: Critical. Through-wall flashing (metal or peel-and-stick) must lap over the WRB (housewrap) at base and under WRB at heads/sills. End dams at openings.

WRB: Two layers of Grade D paper or equivalent (IRC R703.2) over sheathing before lath/ties. Lap shingle-style.

Pro Tip: Install ties as you lay brick—don't pre-nail them all. Keeps alignment honest. Verify stud locations first.

For brick veneer over wood framing, the air space, ties, and weeps are critical for moisture management and structural integrity—required by the International Residential Code (IRC) and International Building Code (IBC).

Air Space (1" minimum): Maintain a 1" clear air gap between the back of the brick and the sheathing (IRC R703.8.4). This allows moisture that penetrates the brick to drain downward and evaporate. Do not fill it with insulation or mortar—keep it clean and unobstructed.

Veneer Ties: Use corrosion-resistant metal ties (e.g., galvanized or stainless steel) spaced no more than 16" horizontally and 24" vertically (IRC R703.8.4.2). Each tie must embed at least 1.5" into the mortar joint and be fastened to the studs with at least two 8d nails or screws. Start ties within 8" of openings and within 12" of the top and bottom of the veneer. Ties must be flexible enough to accommodate differential movement—use adjustable or corrugated ties designed for veneer.

Weep Holes: Place weep holes at the bottom of the air space, above flashing, and above openings (IRC R703.8.4.3). Space them no more than 24" on center. Use open head joints, plastic weep vents, or rope wicks—never mortar or sealant. Weeps allow trapped water to escape and promote airflow.

Flashing: Install continuous flashing at the base of the veneer, above openings, and at the top (under the soffit) to direct water out via weeps. Flashing must extend up the sheathing at least 6" and lap under water-resistive barrier (WRB).

Key Notes:

• Never bond brick directly to framing—this traps moisture and causes rot.
• WRB (housewrap or felt) is required behind the air space (IRC R703.2).
• If unsure about structural ties or flashing details, consult a licensed engineer or mason—improper installation risks water damage, mold, or veneer failure.

Follow IRC Chapter 7 and manufacturer specs for your brick and tie system. When in doubt, hire a pro—this is not a DIY shortcut zone.