Customer wants all the crape myrtles cut back to 5-foot stubs in February like the neighbors do.

What you tell them: "That's called 'crape murder.' It destroys the tree's natural vase shape, creates weak knuckles prone to decay, and forces spindly shoots that can't hold flowers upright. We'll structurally prune instead—removing crossing/rubbing branches, suckers, and interior clutter to open airflow. You'll get more blooms on stronger wood, and the tree stays beautiful year-round."

What you actually do (February, dormant season):

1. Remove the "3 Ds": Dead, Damaged, Diseased wood—cut to branch collar.
2. Eliminate suckers: Cut basal sprouts flush to trunk/roots.
3. Thin interior: Remove branches crossing/rubbing or growing inward. Target pencil-thickness wood.
4. Raise canopy (if needed): Limb up to ⅓ total height for clearance; never >½ foliage.
5. Selective heading (only if necessary): Reduce height only on specific tall canes by cutting to a lateral branch ≥⅓ the diameter of the cut stem (ANSI A300 reduction cut). Never top to a uniform stub.

Code/Standard: ANSI A300 (Part 1)-2017 Pruning Standards: Topping (indiscriminate heading) is prohibited. Reduction cuts required for size management. ISA Best Management Practices: "Topping is the most harmful tree pruning practice known."

If they insist: Put "Customer requested topping against arborist recommendation" on the invoice. Photograph the tree pre-work. You own the liability when those knuckles fail.

I’d advise against cutting crape myrtles to 5-foot stubs — a practice often called “crape murder.” It’s harmful, unsightly, and weakens the tree over time. While neighbors may do it, it’s not proper horticulture.

What to tell the customer: “Cutting crape myrtles back hard each year to stubs leads to weak, spindly growth, increased disease susceptibility, and an unnatural ‘knuckled’ appearance. It stresses the tree and reduces flowering over time. Instead, we can prune to enhance natural shape, health, and bloom — keeping it attractive and long-lived.”

What pruning to actually do (late winter, Feb–early March):

• Remove dead, diseased, or crossing branches.
• Thin interior growth to improve air flow and light penetration (cut back to a lateral branch or trunk — never leave stubs).
• Shape lightly by shortening overly long shoots to a bud facing outward.
• Maintain the tree’s natural vase or multi-trunk form. Avoid topping or heading back large limbs.
• Goal: A strong, open canopy with abundant summer blooms and winter interest from exfoliating bark.

If the tree is overgrown or neglected, renewal pruning over 2–3 years (removing 1/3 of oldest stems each year) is better than drastic cutting.

Bottom line: Educate the customer on proper pruning benefits. Offer to demonstrate the difference. If they insist on topping, document your recommendation and consider whether to proceed — it may violate professional standards (ANSI A300 Part 1). Never top a crape myrtle as a routine practice.