Screws: Use #10 or #12 self-drilling (Tek) screws, 3/4" to 1" long. They cut through steel without pre-drilling. Wood screws won't work — they're not self-drilling and will bind.
Screw placement: 7/8" from edge of stud flange. Don't overdrive — flush or slightly below surface. Overdriving can deform the stud.
Working direction: Steel studs are lighter and more flexible than wood. Work from one end, pulling studs back into place as you go. Use a stud puller or clamps to keep alignment.
Studs themselves: 20-gauge is thin — easy to damage. Handle carefully. They're also hollow, so avoid crushing the flanges when screwing near ends.
Tools: Use a drill/driver with a clutch. Impact drivers can over-torque and strip screws.
Safety: Steel studs conduct heat/cold and are noisy. Wear gloves — edges are sharp.
Code note: Check local building codes for screw spacing requirements — typically 12" o.c. along edges, 16" o.c. intermediate supports for drywall.
Pro tip: Snap a chalk line for consistent screw height. Steel doesn't shrink or swell like wood, so you don't need to worry about seasonal movement.